Mauler Build Guide



(note i've switched out the sprue C image as there were some changes between the yellow prototype initially shown and production)
There are several options for this model so i'll break this guide up into sections, the Closed Cab and the Weapon Platform can be built with no modifications, but with some simple conversion you can also build a Pickup or a Three Way Swappable option
Common Chassis
first build the wheels (part 22 & 23), make sure to line up the tread blocks as shown below for the best appearance. (if they don't look right just rotate one of the wheel halves by 120 degrees and check again)

next build the main hull (1, 2, 3 & 4), make sure you trim or file down all the sprue gates otherwise the model won't fit together correctly. Next add the exhausts (29 & 30) on the side of the cab.

If you plan to build the Closed Cab, Pickup or Three Way Swappable add the rear floor (7), there's a peg and slot to show which way round this goes in

Note if you're building the Weapon Platform don't fit the rear floor (7)
Now add the drivers (8) and gunners (27) vision sections onto the front of the cab. Fit the bumper bars over the drivers section, the upper bar (34) fits into the holes in the cab, the two short rods (33) fit into the sockets on the underside the upper bar, then the lower bar (35) is added to the rods, then glued to the hull below the two pegs on the cab

Optional seats (20 & 21) for the Closed Cab and Pickup can be fitted, make sure the seat leg flush with the edge of the seat is at the cab end as shown below on the upsidedown seat (or the closed cab section won't fit). Do not fit these if you want to build the Three Way Swapable Mauler

Optional tow hook (36) can be fitted if you're building the Closed Cab or Pickup Mauler. It should be left off if you're building the Weapon Platform or Three Way Swappable Mauler

There's a choice of dual flamer and a small canon/heavy machine gun/grenade launcher (it's your vehicle, you decide what it is) for the front of the cab. Alternatively you could cover fill the hole you fit the guns into (treat it as a sensor pod?), or not fit the mantlet and cover the whole area with a bit of plasticard (extra armour?) if you want a more civilian look

Closed Cab Mauler
Assemble the closed rear section. I found it easiest to glue the sides (5 & 6) onto the rear plate (9) placing them on the chassis to make sure they are alligned correctly, then glue on the roof section (10). If you plan to make the Three Way Swappable version make sure you don't glue the rear section onto the chassis.
Next add the two roof hatches (31 & 32), and the ramp (11) onto the rear section. (if you want to get fancy you could make the ramp workable by drilling through the hinges with a pin vise and adding a wire pin



Weapon Platform Mauler
Fit the railings (15, 16, 17 & 18) to the weapon platform floor (14), next fit the ladder (19) to the ladder carrier (13) The two lower sets of pegs on the ladder fit into the sockets on the holder. Finally glue the ladder carrier and ladder to the underside of the weapon platform floor, the upper pegs on the ladder fit into the half sockets on the weapon platform edge so everything lines up correctly



Pickup Mauler
To build the pickup you'll need to create a tail gate. The simplest option is to cut a rectangle of plasticard approx 46.5mm x 10 mm and fit it to close the rear of the bed (i've used 1mm thick plasticard as it's what i have available)
If you want to get fancy then cut a second piece of plasticard as shown below and glue it onto the first rectangle, and glue two 4mm sections of plastic rod (the side of the sprue where the wheels were attached will give you this) to represent the the hinge

you can also add a latch/lock, I drilled a small hole part way through the tailgate indicated by the dot above, but you could equally well glue something on instead




Three Way Swappable Mauler
To build this version you need to trim the ladder carrier (13) as shown, cut along the blue line. Make multiple shallow cuts with a craft knife, and I recommend using a straight edge like a metal ruler too (the plastic is too thick to cut in one), or use a fine modelling saw. (Trimming off this plastic means you can put the weapons platform on the chassis with the rear floor installed, allowing you to swap between closed cab, pickup and weapon platform)


You can then lift the closed rear cab, weapon platform or pickup tailgate on or off the chassis so you can run any of them in your army list without having to buy multiple kits
A couple more builds have been suggested
Open Top (like a soviet BTR152) thanks to Joseph Churchname from the WGA Legion facebook group
Build the Closed Cab version with the optional seats, but leave off the roof

4 wheeled variants thanks to Kid Kyoto on the Dakkadakka forum
For a different looks you could remove the center wheels. Cut off the peg from the hull side with a hobby saw, or carefully shave it off in pieces with a hobby knife (the peg is too thick to cut in one go with a hobby knife, if you try the blade is likely to break so dont do it)
Roof Gunner etc
If you don't plan to have a roof gunner glue the hatch (28) closed, otherwise glue it open (if you're building the Three Way Swappable Mauler put it at an angle to make fitting the cab easier
Glue the gas mask filter (48) to the head (47). Then glue the head onto the body (41). The body is placed into a socket (38) that fits in the hatch on the cab roof
You can build a mini-gun (39 & 40) and a light machine gun (45 & 45). There is a separate trigger handle (49), the other trigger handle is split in half and held by the two gunner arms (42 & 43)
If you plan to have the gunner always fitted I suggest gluing the weapon stand (46) onto the edge of the hatch, then attaching your weapon of choice onto it. If you want to be able to remove the gunner, dont' glue the weapon stand onto the cab, this makes it all more fiddly but is possible
Then in one step glue the two arms together at the weapon handles, glue the arms to the torso (resting in but not yet glued into the socket), and glue the trigger handle being held by the arms onto the back of the gun. While the glue is not yet set you should be able to get these parts aligned. Finally add some glue to the socket to hold the torso in place.
