I have goblin problems-n and I don't live in Moria!


  • Hi All,

    I recently purchased the classic fantasy Goblins. I washed them up in Dawn (washing up liquid) to remove the mold release, and starting assembly. Immediately, I noticed the plastic still felt slick to the point parts were squirting out of the tweezers, and superglue was having difficulty bonding. I also am havingtrouble with arm placement. The little divot in the torsos seems too shallow. I am an experienced hobbyist, hense why I am reaching out. My  WGA spiders and haflling militia are going together just fine.

    My questions are:

    What glue are you using to assemble your miniatures? 

    Did I get all the mold release off?

    Do I need to drill the arm connection points deeper to get a better fit?

    Thanks for the insight.

    Cheers!

    -Harold

     



  • I don't have that kit. But I use plastic glue revell on everything, never fails to glue plastic parts or clog the nozzle.

     

    Never bothered to wash plastic miniatures before assembling (or painting). I do do that with metal figures thoughts.

     

    I do recall that there was something about the joints between the arms and toros. Perhaps someone else who actually assembled the figures can comment on that. (But I heard assembling the spiders is the worst!)


  • I have not had the problem you mention. I usually clean soft plastics like CMON and Reaper but I do not tend to clean HIPs sprues. 

    While the spiders were challenging I did not find the goblins difficult to build using Citadel plastic glue. I try to avoid using superglue on HIPs and reserve that for metal figures. 

    Admittedly I have only built a couple of the goblins so far.


  • Hi Harold there is no need to wash our plastic. "Mold release" is not a thing. It's one of those myths leftover from ages gone by. I suspect you have excess dish detergent left over on them!


  • I built 5 or so of the Goblins.  Liquid model glue (Tamiya extra fine) and experienced no problems.  

    https://wargamesatlantic.com/community/xenforum/topic/79323/converting-wga-goblins-for-silver-bayonet

    (I personally find super glue suboptimal unless forced to use it by mixed media - metal or resin to plastic, etc).

    I cleaned the parts in rubbing alcohol before assembly and painting but based on what @Hudson Adams said that may have been an unnecessary step.


  • Yeah as mentioned, I haven't washed any hips plastic. I would only use superglue if there is resin or metal or non hips plastic. For hips stuff I use this: 

     


  • Like everyone, I feel like the main problem is you treating them like some kind of old-school metal/resin miniatures. ;) They don't require washing, and plastic glue is what you want to use for plastic on plastic, so the issue is most definitely the liquid still on them.


  • Thanks everyone for the advice and guidance!


  • Exactly, Tamiya's extra thin cement is the best for plastics, I generally use CA glue only for fixing them on resin/scratchbuilt bases, plus GS for conversions.


  • @Harold Duffey I did not wash my goblins before glueling, and I used Testors nontoxic plastic cement most likely for said glueling. I think the problem you maybe having is that these guys have ball joint arms so you actualy have to hold them in place longer or have "glue dry scaffolding" to get the poses you want otherwise gravity does what it does.


  • Ah, so now I have 3 spam bot stuck in my comment alerts.


  • @Harold Duffey If the parts were still slick, I'd assume you didn't wash them thoroughly enough to get all the dawn off.


  • @Lord Marcus That is a fair assumption, though as Hudson said it may also be leftover soap from his first wash and I personally don't normally wash my plastic minis before assembling and have had no issues were I would blame it on on mold release so much as gravity.

    Given its been about year since this topic, I would say he needed to make sure that the soap was rinsed off and consider using a book, dice, or some other small object to hold the arm in place while they dry. Also he should probably switch to testors non toxic cement for plastic models, it gets the job done and saves lungs.

    Also I was actually replying over the darn spambot post that now marks the number of "never to be veiwed" unveiwed replys in my reply alerts up to 3 now (the other 2 are also spambot post)


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